August 28th-
August 29th
Alright, I had about a week of fun and games, now it was
time to get down to the serious business of finding a job for summer. Before
arriving to the South Island I had completed job applications for working as a
guide on Fox and Franz Joseph Glacier. I scheduled to meet Kurt, a gentleman
from Fox, for an informal meet and greet (really to show I wasn’t just an email
from across the world) on Thursday. Friday I had a ‘formal’ interview with the
guides at Franz Joseph. Penzy and Jonas were kind enough to detour around to
the West Coast to drop me off at Fox before heading down to Wanaka to continue
their ski trip.
I arrived in Fox Township (which consists of a small hotel,
a motel, a café, a restaurant, the tourist guide shops, and a scattering of
small homes and farms) just before noon. Right on time. It was a stunningly
warm, sunny day. I had to remind myself this is rare for the West Coast. If I
move here, I will have to get over having a majority of my days being rainy. Ok, Kat, picture yourself living in a town that has nothing to do unless you’re in the
mountains, and remember that a majority of the weather doesn’t allow you to get
into the mountains. It’ll be like living in Maine again, not CO and UT. Ahh,
I’ll be good. It’s about 3.5 hours to get to Wanaka, which is a much drier
place with lots of rock climbing and mountains to play in. Besides, there’s
always coffee and tea to drink, a beach 20 minutes away, and as I found out
later, some of the best kayaking in the world. I might end up converting if I
stay here.
Pulling myself out of my mind’s tangent tornado, I walked
into the Fox glacier guide office. In the same building they packed in a café,
a heli-guide company, and a souvenir shop. I asked the lady at the desk if I could meet with Kurt. Ten
minutes later he came down and introduced himself. We sat down to have a very
informal, and it turns out, impromptu chat outside. Our conversation sort of
zig zagged through various subjects about being a guide, my needs, and living
in the area. When I happened to mention that I had to hitch back to my car,
which was almost on the same latitude as us but on the other side of the
mountains, he offered to see if he could find a helicopter heading that way, so
I might hitch a ride with them. Tempting but I declined the offer, noting I was
staying on the west coast for a couple more days.
During our discussions, I learned that the company would
need me to work December, January, and February for 5-6 days a week. I had been
hoping for September, October, November, and maybe December. I was going to
miss out on prime climbing season with that schedule. I began to doubt the
compatibility of the job with my need of a balance between work and play. Though if they’d sponsor a two-year work
visa for me after…that could change my mind.
Kurt mentioned at the start of our conversation that there
was a heli-trip heading out to the glacier that afternoon that I may be able to
shadow. That way I could see exactly what my job would look like (minus the glacier changing everyday). An hour or
more into our conversation he mentions it again, noting that the trip was leaving in
15 minutes, and if I was keen he would see if there was a spot. It was after 1
and I hadn't eaten lunch yet, but of course I wasn't going to miss out so I
agreed to go. He radioed in. There was a spot. I pulled what life I had with me
out of my backpack put it on the table we were sitting at (not the most
professional thing to do, but I didn’t have much choice). Grabbed what I needed: layers,
snack and water bottle, then followed Kurt to the heli-pad. He gave me a
quick rundown of what I needed to know for helicopter safety and then left
me with the group and a guide. The guide luckily remembered to grab me a
pair of crampons as well just as the helicopter arrived. I followed the
directions of the guide, hopping in the helicopter.
 |
| Looking down on Fox Glacier from the Helicopter |
He gave a very clear demonstration of how to put on the crampons,
went over some basic safety rules, invited folks to ask if they want to investigate something, and we were off. I followed right behind him asking questions as we
went. What was the length of a workday? How was it working for Fox? Were the
other guides keen to get out for adventures? Etc. He paused occasionally in our
discussion to explain various features in the ice to the paying clients. This was only my second time on the glacier, and I was excited to have the opportunity this time to
pause and take pictures of the features in the ice. Three years ago on Aoraki, we were in a race
against time. We needed to get across the glacier before the bridges over the crevasses, some of which could eat a small house and you’d never know, softened
up too much. Where we were on the Fox Glacier wasn’t very exciting.
Pretty flat, with a scattering of small features to see here and there; A narrow very deep hole with a waterfall dropping into it, a couple of arches, a few small walls with
tunnels you could crawl all the way through to the other side, etc. It was
lovely to see the layers in the ice, the diversity of color. Oh how I wished I
had a good camera to capture it. I did my best, but the camera couldn’t really
pick up the subtle changes in the ice colors. The most exciting thing we went
into was a crevasse you could walk right into. They had some fixed lines to be
used as a handrail to guide you through spots with shallow holes that could
never the less twist an ankle. Apparently it had only showed up a week or two
before, and was growing rapidly.
After strolling around at a very leisurely pace for about 2
hours, we headed back to the Helipad. John asked if I was interested in the
position and I admitted my concerns for my partner getting a job around here
and us having time to accomplish some of our bigger missions. He understood and
advised me to contact the Queenstown rock climbing company for a guide
position.
Right after the flight I met again with Kurt for a little
bit longer. He gave me a brief tour of the housing they provide for the guides
before we said our goodbyes, noting we would both be in touch shortly. I
headed to a good hitching spot to get back to Franz Joseph Glacier. About 1
hour later, after watching less than a handful of cars go by, a young French woman pulled over and I hopped
in.
I arrived at the Backpackers, Chateu Franz Joseph,
that the guiding company had booked me into for two nights, free of charge.
Pretty hoppin’ place. Free wifi, free or cheap food some nights, big parties on
the patio (oh yeah, it was college Spring Break), etc. The man at reception,
when he found out I was interviewing with Franz guiding company, booked me into
an empty room to make sure I could get a good nights rest before my interview.
So Franz Joseph was a much more formal interview (and in
reality, I still had to do an interview with Fox if they decided to put me on
their short list), or as formal as the outdoor rec world gets. I showed up in a nice button up synthetic shirt and my mountaineering pants. I chatted with
two head guides when I arrived. They asked me to talk about
myself and of course I told them what I thought they’d like to hear (adding
that I just ran up Rolleston the other day with ease, just to put a cherry on
top). Then they told me about working for the company. Their program required 4-6
weeks of training and therefore wanted about a 5- 6 month commitment from me.
Again, with me working 5-6 days a week during the prime climbing season. Ouch.
There are no decent crags near either town to just run up after work.
I got to detour from the group to chat with a couple of other guides working on the glacier. One was a woman guide who was instructed to inform me what it is like to be a woman in this industry. So she tried to give me some scenarios to explain. I interpreted it as:
“So just ‘kick the others guys' butts’ so I can earn their
respect?”
“Yeah, basically.”
“Ok, I think I can handle that.”
In a talk with a lead guide, I learned the conversation
was really suppose to focus more on how it is to be a woman guide when leading
groups from other nationalities. Another very important point and I had some things to contemplate from our discussion.
I joined the group again just in time to catch a helicopter
back to town. I exchanged some final words with the guides I met when I first
arrived and then headed back to the backpackers to sneak in an afternoon run.
I had a wee bit to think about in the next couple of weeks
while I waited on the two company’s decision. Within two weeks I was offered a
job with Franz Joseph and a formal interview with Fox. I declined both, hoping I could get another job which would be more accommodating to our needs.
